No. 83: Prenton Park [Tranmere Rovers]

Saturday, 18th April 2015
Tranmere Rovers v. Oxford United [League Two] 0-3

After spending the last few weekends almost consistently behind the wheel of my car, I fancied a more leisurely trip to the North West for Oxford's fixture at Tranmere - the only new ground in League Two for me this season.

So I took the express train from London on Friday and stayed the night nearby in the fine city of Liverpool. For those unaware, Tranmere Rovers play in Birkenhead, on The Wirral, across the river Mersey from their more successful Merseyside neighbours in Liverpool.

Although distinct from and not part of the city of Liverpool, the communities on the Wirral are very closely linked, not just by proximity, but also by familial, political and cultural social ties.

Unlike most parts of the country, the neighbouring Birkenheaders don't really begrudge their famous neighbours, from what I gathered from Tranmere fans I spoke to. I was expecting to hear how such bitter rivals Liverpool and Everton are - but the consensus seemed to be that they were simply light years away from Tranmere and so have never factored as teams to despise.

Of course, they don't like Wirral residents wearing Red and Blue shirts and catching the ferry to go and watch Premiership football rather than support their local team - but that's no different to anywhere these days.

I arrived at Liverpool Lime Street early evening, just in time to meet up with an old Oxford friend also in the city that evening visiting friends - one of whom was a Tranmere fan. We had a few drinks, a cracking curry in the experimental Spice City (Mango Salsa and Jalapeño curries amongst their signature dishes), and talked all things Tranmere and Merseyside.

Liverpool is a fantastic city with a distinct flavour - I've always thought it had a pretty unique vibe to it that doesn't really feel like any other part of England.

Beatles-Themed Hard Days Night Hotel, Liverpool.
Inset: One of countless pictures of them found in every building in the City.

People here have a civic pride that comes first before a national pride of being English or British, a pride based upon being a unique centre of early immigration from Ireland and further afield, a centre of shipping and shipbuilding that bred a vibrant working-class culture of it's own and was part of the reason why in the 60s the MerseyBeat music scene that spawned the Beatles happened here rather than anywhere else. And you are indeed reminded the the Beatles came from the banks of the Mersey at every fucking turn in this city!

As far as Birkenheaders go, they are a part of this culture and the distinct nature of Merseyside - just don't call them scousers!

My man on the inside tells me it's a very complicated relationship. He said that the Wirral accent is probably more scouse than scouse, and there isn't an awful lot of love from Liverpool across to the 'woolybacks' from outside the city. And a song that Tranmere fans sing goes thus:

"Do not be mistaken, do not be mislead, 
we're not scousers - we're from Birkenhead. 
They can keep their cathedrals and they can keep their pier head, 
'cos we're not scousers, we're from Birkenhead."

But Wirrallers (if that's even a word) also speak about the City of Liverpool and its relative cultural wealth with a passion you'd normally only expect from someone born and bred there. So it is indeed a very complicated relationship!

Liverpool Skyline from Radio City Tower [inset]. Birkenhead across Mersey.

I got my first view of Birkenhead just after breakfast on Saturday from atop Radio City Tower, the 1969-built radio tower and observation deck in the centre of Liverpool, giving quite a sweeping view over the cityscape.

Beyond the impressive rooftops of Liverpool across the Mersey, Birkenhead's skyline is less grand - the landmarks being the ventilation shafts for the road and rail tunnels beneath the river, and the imposing white edifice of the Cammel Laird shipyard -Birkenhead's historical livelihood.

What other way was I going to get to the Wirral from here but by ferry? I could have got the train and been at Prenton Park in 15 minutes. But time wasn't an issue, so I had a 40 minute cruise up and across the Mersey being serenaded by Gerry Marsden every 10 minutes as his famous song was played interspersed with a bit of local history and tourist points of interest from the ferry's PA.

I happened to be quite hungover from the night before, so I can't remember much of it I'm afraid. I was more concerned about trying to not think about throwing up all over my fellow passengers. I think I remember something about the largest brick building in the world being visible somewhere. I may go and look that up next time I'm in Liverpool. Just as long as I don't have to hear Ferry 'Cross The Mersey again.

Arriving at Woodside Pier Head on the Wirral, I now had a 2.5 mile walk to Prenton Park through Birkenhead on this hot, gloriously sunny day. There isn't an awful lot to see and do on a Saturday morning in Birkenhead to be honest with you. It's not really blessed with many interesting sights, shops or restaurants. And what pubs I did pass...well, they didn't look particularly inviting if I'm honest.

Hamilton Square & Birkenhead Town Hall

One gem well worth seeing though, not that far from the ferry terminal, is the beautiful Hamilton Square - a well-manicured square surrounded by Grade I listed Georgian terraces and the impressive Birkenhead Town Hall.

An unexpected little corner of beauty in an otherwise uninspiring place, Hamilton Square was commissioned by shipbuilder William Laird in 1824 to show off his wealth, and actually has more Grade I listed buildings remaining in situ than in any other square in England save for Trafalgar Square in London. That's quite impressive in my books - especially in such an unexpected location as the percieved rough-and-ready Birkenhead.

I was accompanied in the square by a family of extremely drunk people sat on a park bench with cans of stella, chatting away quite amiably I thought until one of them slurred "If you do that, I'll fucking stab you." I soon stopped day-dreaming of Georgian stoneworks and remembered I still had a two mile walk ahead of me.

Birkenhead Street with Liverpool in distance; Birkenhead Central Station;
and a Back to Back Alleyway.

Despite the obvious wealth that was here when Hamilton Square was built, the decline of shipbuilding and other local industries in the latter half of the 20th century is reasonably evident in parts of Birkenhead. There were plenty of open spaces with rubble on the ground, boarded up and run down housing.

But like anywhere that's seen better days, there was also a lot of recent development and re-investment in evidence here; with modern facilities, housing and shops cropping up here in these for too long neglected working-class areas.

Prenton Park itself is surrounded by a reasonably nice neighbourhood of semi-detached 1960s style houses, and didn't feel half as threatening as I'd been led to believe it would. Perhaps the Tranmere fans are simply too jaded after a succession of bad seasons to care about making this a difficult place to visit for away fans.

First view of Prenton Park: That's a big Stand.

They'd be taking their lead from their own players if that was the case, judging by their position going into the game at the very bottom of the football league. Indeed, unless Tranmere pull their finger out, Prenton Park won't be one of the 92 next season as Rovers are struggling to avoid the dreaded drop into Non-league this season.

Going into the club shop pre-match to buy a programme, you certainly couldn't fault the enthusiasm of the club director who came in to rally the troops - high fives for everyone, even me as he demanded "big tens" from me (that's a two-handed very vigorous high five, of course) and cheer on the super white boys today.

Pre-Match Entertainment: Live Music!

I didn't have the heart to tell him I was an Oxford fan and would in fact be cheering on an away victory that could well open the trap-door of relegation for his side. Might have broken his spirit a bit.

Moving inside the ground, the away fans were serenaded pre-match by a band nestled into the corner of the John King stand next to the Cowshed end that the travelling Oxford were housed in. A novel idea, and actually - they were pretty good! It was also welcome change to the usual late 90s mix-tape on loop you get in most grounds.

Tranmere fans probably wish the 1990s were still on loop.

Prenton Park was redeveloped as a 16,500 all-seater when they were a play-off chasing Championship side in 1995. Today, it is certainly too big for them in League Two, let alone the Conference that may await. The impressive Kop End could have held the entire crowd this afternoon, and the 5,000 Tranmere fans in attendance were dwarfed by the many empty seats.

Main Stand: Only stand from before 1990s redevelopment. Built 1968.

Tranmere started the game well and those loyal and beleaguered fans would have even gone into half-time believing they had a chance of pulling out of the drop-zone as other results seemed to be going their way - if they could just find that breakthrough against an Oxford side playing only for pride after a mediocre season.

Sadly for the Prenton faithful, it was not to be, and two well-made goals snapped into the back of the Tranmere net in the space of a minute shortly after the re-start effectively ended the game as a contest.

When it went 2-0 on 52 minutes there was a substantial exodus form the home seats by fans who could see the writing was on the wall - today at least. I think I may have even seen Patricia "Hyacinth Bucket" Routledge, rumoured to be a Tranmere fan, sneaking out early, no doubt to get one of her famous candlelight suppers on the go.

2nd Half Action: Oxford Attack the Tranmere Goal.

I'd been told before the game by one fan that "the majority of the players are spineless gobshites who are not playing for the badge or shirt." That might sound a little harsh, but you could definitely see the desire and the heads drop for the last third of the game once they knew they were beaten - sadly for Tranmere that's the sign of a side heading out the back door and the 3-0 scoreline could easily have been more in the end as Oxford fans seemed to rub in the misery with the 'olés' at the end.

Still another two weeks to go though to save Tranmere's League status. This relegation really is more than any other relegation, because it's a loss of that status and standing as a league club. It's not just a drop of a division - it's a drop into the chasm of non-league. 

The negative nature of that status says it all really - 'NON'-league. NOT one of the 92 anymore. You drop out of this division and you are NOT a Football League club anymore. 

That's a big thing, that's one reason why this 92 Club quest means something to me - as I know from personal experience that Oxford's loss of 92 status in 2006 hurt, and getting it back again in 2010 meant everything. So I feel your impending sense of loss, Tranmere fans.

5,500 Capacity Kop End. Oxford Players saluting their fans post-match infront.

Tranmere Rovers is another one of those 'proper' Football League clubs that I genuinely hope do bounce back again soon if they do slip out of the 92 this season. 

At least they would have a couple of tasty derbies to look forward too in the Conference though - Chester, Wrexham, even Southport - would be big games in these parts.

But I'm pretty sure they'd rather stay in League Two, playing anyone. And after all, being back in the League would also mean more chance of a cup draw against those billy-big bollocks Premiership shites from across the Mersey. 

And we all like a cup upset, don't we? Good luck Tranmere!


With thanks to Martyn Stewart & @Josh96_EU

NEXT UP - Weekend Double-Header!
May 2nd: Blackburn v. Ipswich
May 3rd: Oldham v. Peterborough